November 2023
Photo Credit: Jennifer Brown - Past President Louisiana Beekeepers Association
www.TheBeeSupply.com
THE BEE SUPPLY
Monthly
Featured Topics Planning Ahead! When to Give up on a Hive Yellow-Legged Hornet Bee-Friendly Pest Management
Edition 41
Contents
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Clicking on a Topic will take you right to it!
Table Of
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6 Monthly Tips 10 Planning Ahead! Hive Stands & Apiary Layouts 14 When to Give up on a Hive 16 You've determined your hive isn't going to make it. Now what? 18 Winter Hive Inspections 20 Caution - Propolis Ahead! 22 What Kind of Bees Should I Order? 24 Winter Feeding 28 Expert Beekeeper Chat - Dr. Jamie Ellis
November
30 What's Bugging You? Yellow-Legged Hornet 34 Painting & Preserving Woodenware 36 What's the Buzz? Gifts for Beekeepers 42 Bee-Friendly Pest Management 46 Beyond Bees - Planting a Pollinator Garden 48 Recipe - Skillet Salted Honey Apple Crisp 50 Webinar Q & A 52 Club Finder 53 U.S. Drought Map
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Unlike any other suit on the market - the one and only TBS Super Suit! This suit is built to last – Quality unsurpassed in the industry! Made of the toughest vented triple layer material we could find! Only the very best non-rusting zippers and handy zippered veil! Veil supports in the back, rugged knee coverings and heavy-duty elastic. Adjustable wrists, full-length leg zippers and added material through the torso. Durable, heavy weight, top-of-the-line materials ensure you are getting the best!
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As November progresses, you should begin to see less and less brood in your hive. Many hives are completely broodless by late November. However, on warm years, with strong hives, you can still see multiple frames of brood. As the temperatures cool, bees will begin drinking less and less syrup. Hopefully your hive already has all the stored pounds of honey/syrup it needs to survive the winter. (30-40 lbs. in southern states, 40-60 lbs. in moderate zones, 60-100 lbs. in cold climates). If not, continue feeding. For continued carb and protein consumption during dormant seasons, sugar bricks can stay on your hives throughout the winter months. If your hive still has more than 2 mites per 100 bees, methods such as Oxalic Acid (Api Biolxal) can be effective when used during a broodless, or nearly broodless period. Combine any hives that are less than 5 frames of bees. If you have a screened bottom board, covering it is not necessary in climates that stay above freezing most of the winter. However, prevent wind from blowing underneath the hive by blocking off each side of the bottom board. Northern states where the temperatures remain below 40 degrees throughout winter may benefit from insulating their hives and providing an upper entrance for their bees. These hives can easily have issues with moisture forming under the top cover – so adding a moisture board is recommended. For climates that stay above 40 degrees the better part of winter, no insulating or top entrance is necessary, however, utilizing hive boxes such as Apimaye hives can be beneficial in reducing the work bees have to do to keep their hives warm during winter.
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Test the honey stored weight by tilting the back of the hive forward slightly. If it's heavy - good. Light, then feed!
2024 Class Schedule now AVAILABLE!
By: Blake Shook
November Tips
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Quick hive checks throughout the winter should be done monthly on warm days.
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MORE INFO
1st Thursday of Each Month Monthly Buzz Webinar November 2nd, 6:30 pm - 8:00 pm
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In the Bee Yard Tips Feeding Sugar Bricks Winter Inspections Final Feeding Diagnosing Dead Hives Screened Bottom Boards & Winter Live Q&A
James and Chari Elam answer your questions LIVE and present short practical timely topics.
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Drawing by: The daughter of Randy Dueck
Budget Hive Stands
Planning Ahead! Hive Stands and Apiary Layouts
By: Chari Elam
There are very few things I consider myself an expert on… but one that I feel almost certain I deserve credit for is having tried every apiary set up known to man … or bee! Over the years we have had our bees placed in so many different configurations one would think we were doing a field study on the topic and, unintentionally, there may be some truth to that! Single Hive Stands - The best apiary configuration we had was in the very beginning and it was a single hive on a single stand at least a hive and ½ apart from another hive. This works well for 1-10 hives… then you start getting more and more hives, and the need to cut the expense of hive stands comes into play. But for those that will perpetually stay at 10 or less hives, single hive stands are the way to go. You can space them apart and set them up in various ways to suit your needs. Experience has shown us that orienting their entrances in different directions helps with homing and drifting. Platform stands can be made by using cinder blocks or wooden legs as the base and placing a framework of 2x6 lumber on top – then put a solid surface (we used Hardie Backer cement board) on top of that. Tip: Leaving an empty space the size of a hive in between each colony gives you room to work your hives while leaving a place to set tools, smoker, etc. next to the hive you’re working. The day platform beekeeping turned stupid – Well, the platform didn’t turn stupid - the beekeepers did. I’m sure it wasn’t my idea (wink wink), but “someone” came up with the idea to add a hive in between the hives already sitting there. Remember each had an empty space between them? Where the problem came in was the “idea” said “turn the new hives opposite each other so they won’t be too robby being side by side!" Great idea Honey! Ooops – I mean “person that came up with the idea”! NOT – not a good idea at all! What do you think happened? Yep, you pegged it – we couldn’t work the hives without standing in front of a hive! No matter where we stood, we were blocking the entrance to the next hive ((stupid idea)). That took a while to correct because then we had to move each one of them. Sooo stupid! Before I get too far away from the platform stand method – it took years for it to happen, but the Hardie Backer turned out to be a bad idea too! Hardie Backer is a great surface when it’s mounted vertically – flat… not so much. It eventually absorbed enough moisture to become crumbly and break. Ask me how I know…no don’t…use your imagination. Needless to say – platform stands need to be topped with treated plywood OR, where we have landed with most of our out yards is using deck boards – no place for water to collect at all, yet good and sturdy to hold as many hives as you can fit. Drifting and robbing – These are a big issue with platform stands and some apiary layouts as mentioned. It turns out that alternating hive entrances opposite each other is a great idea IF you leave enough space in between to work your bees! It prevents drifting because each hive (in theory) is 4 hive spaces away from the next hive facing the same direction. Pallet bees – Your first thought is probably 4-way pallets … or even 6-way, with bees stacked side by side – 2 one direction, 2 the other like commercial beekeepers do. Small scale beekeepers can use pallets without making a big project out of it and can often get them free! Our source happens to be a generator installer…heavy duty pallets free – What a deal! To double the pallet use for smaller spaces, try cutting them in half and even putting short legs on them – Works great! Ideal Locations for bees Afternoon shade in the summer – afternoon sun in the winter Entrances away from prevailing winds – not facing north. Tree lines can be great – often providing shade and can aid in bees locating their hives. On small properties – For more than 1 or 2 hives, consider spacing them out at opposite sides of the property and even orienting the entrances in all directions to somewhat point your bees to different resources. Away from neighboring homes and businesses. This can be a challenge when you live in a neighborhood. Consider putting an obstacle such as a fence or row of hedges in front of the hive to force the flight pattern “up” away from your home or your neighbors. Helpful tips: If you have to have your bees close together just make sure you can work them from the back to avoid standing in front of the hive. Paint a “dot” or “symbol” on the face of the hive or on the lid to help bees find their home. Or, if you are very artistic, and don’t have too many hives, paint your hive boxes different colors with artwork!
I can't tell you how many of these hives stands we've bought - and they are still in use!
Platform with deck boards - Our favorite next to pallets.
Platform with a Hardie Backer top board. Better to use treated wood or deck boards.
For a detailed article about Drifting - Check out an excellent article by Scott Souders in the November 2020 issue - Page 52
Pallets can be easily retrofitted for specific spaces - Note the one on the right - Short legs in back, longer in front to accommodate the ground elevation.
You've worked hard, spent money, maybe made a bit of honey, but now your hive looks terrible. There aren't many bees, the wax moths are starting to move in, and robber bees are stealing what honey is left. When is it time to give up on a hive vs. trying to save it? The graph below is designed to help you with that decision. Whether a hive is worth saving or not depends a bit on the time of year, and the history of the hive. As you can see on the chart, a hive with 3 frames of bees going into winter has virtually no chance of survival. However, a hive with 3 frames of bees in early spring has a decent shot at survival. Any time of year, there are some critical elements to consider when deciding if a hive is worth saving: 1. Is my queen healthy, young & laying well? If your queen is a year or more old, has a poor brood pattern, and isn't laying much when seasonally she should be, it's going to be tough to save a hive that's already weak. 2. How long has your hive been weak? What's the history of the hive? If you split 2 weeks ago, then give them some time to grow. But if they've been 2-3 frames of bees for months, something is clearly wrong, and it's time to combine them. 3. Are mite levels low? If mites are high, then hives will struggle to grow.
Despite your best efforts...
When to give up on a hive
Here's a good example of a hive worth fixing - and some great tips on how to do it.
Tara Chapman hits the nail on the head - A lot depends on where you are in beekeeping.
Wait! Look at this hive! WoW!
One of the reasons this hive is doing so well - Global Pollen Patty with Apis Biologix aka: Rocket Fuel!
GLOBAL
A hive not worth saving...
You've determined your hive isn't worth saving - Now what?
We’ve talked about hives that “don’t” look good – What about one that does?!
You essentially have 2 options. 1. Combine your weak hive with a stronger hive. 2. Dispose of the hive & save the comb. If your hive has very little to no brood, only a few frames of bees, and winter is approaching , or if your hive has a high mite load, it is better to dispose of the hive and store the comb than combine it with a stronger hive and risk spreading mites & disease. To dispose of the hive, the best thing to do is to remove the bottom board and lid one evening, put the deep box in a trash bag, and place it in a freezer for 1 day. This will kill the bees, and any wax moth or SHB eggs or larva. Then, shake the dead bees out of the combs, and store the comb in wax moth crystals. You can reuse the comb for starting a new hive next year. Preserving the comb is critical, as it is one of the most valuable aspects of the hive. Starting over next year will be much easier and faster with drawn comb! It is always disappointing and frustrating to lose bees, but the national average loss rate is 40%+ ...even for commercial beekeepers! Learn from your mistakes, and try again!
Photo Credit: Jennifer Giannobile
...so now what? After months of activity caring for your bees, it's finally time to take a deep breath and wait for spring. If you are like me, waiting is the hardest part! Every cold rainy night, or cold front, I wonder what's going on with my bees, when can I check on them, is it too cold to take a look, etc. Here are some answers to common winter inspection questions: 1. How often should I inspect? I recommend some form of inspection 2 times per month, November-January. For November you should be adding a pollen patty each inspection and doing any last-minute feeding. One inspection in December and January can simply be to lift up on the hive to check the weight and peek under the lid to ensure proper food stores; then the other inspection can be to quickly look inside the hive. 2. When should I inspect? Bees do a decent job of keeping their hive warm, and recovering after the hive has been opened. If you are simply checking food stores, and not breaking the boxes apart or lifting frames, it can be done anytime. If you are lifting frames out or breaking the boxes apart, I recommend around noon on a sunny day. This will give the bees plenty of time to form their cluster before it's cold again at night. As far as temperatures are concerned, I’ve inspected plenty of hives around 35-40 degrees if it's sunny, and the inspection only takes a few minutes. If you want to pull all the frames out one at a time, and do an inspection that lasts several minutes, it needs to be flying weather, so 50s and sunny. But, to just break the boxes apart to see the cluster side, and pull a frame or two out, it can be quite cold and not damage the hive. 3. What should I be looking for? Typically, winter inspections are gauging syrup/honey stores. For warmer climates, if your hive has less than 30lbs in their second box, you can feed syrup on a warm day. Colder climates where your bees are staying in a tight cluster for the duration of winter, double that (60 + lbs.) of stored honey is required. If low, feed fondant or sugar bricks to get them through winter. Check out how to tell how much honey is stored here! It will take the bees several days to drink syrup in the winter. During the winter, that's about all you can do. Outside the hive, make sure the lids are on securely, water isn't pooling on the bottom board, and your wind blocks are in place. If you do have a bright sunny day, and want to pull a few frames out, you should see the queen beginning to lay eggs early to mid-January. A pollen patty or two starting in early January will help jump start that process.
Getting in and out of the hive quickly is the name of the game this time of year.
Winter Hive Inspections
Bees work very hard gathering and distributing propolis...
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Fun Facts 50% resins, 30% waxes, 10% essential oils, 5% pollen, and 5% various organic compounds. Data supports antibacterial properties of propolis are active against Gram-positive bacteria. Flavonoids concentrated in propolis are powerful antioxidants. The antioxidant effects of propolis can delay the occurrence of diabetic nephropathy in diabetes mellitus. Flavonoids in propolis are also accredited for their anti-inflammatory properties.
The Medicinal Study Claims Behind Propolis
Source
CAUTION - PROPOLIS AHEAD!
While we talk about winter hive inspections, we shouldn’t put a period behind the topic without talking about the importance of Propolis. For months and months that was the gooey stuff that stuck to our hive tool and seemed to be in an overabundance around frame rests. Now that stocking up of propolis has found its purpose – and it’s hard as a rock! But what is it? Propolis is a resinous mixture honey bees produce from collecting a sap like substance from plants, trees, and buds. Due to its moldable properties, honey bees use it to repair cracks in the construction of the hive, smooth the interior of the hive, and most notably to seal the crevasse between hive boxes. Occasionally you’ll even see a bee-made entrance reducer when necessary! All of these indicate their capability to protect the nest by providing a barrier against inclement weather like wind and rain, rodents, and other invaders wanting to camp in the warmth of their home. Take note: Bees work very hard gathering and distributing the propolis for the purposes described. Then, here we come to do a “quick inspection” and what happens? We break the propolis seal they so meticulously placed! That's the loud “crack” you heard when you broke apart the boxes! How can we avoid causing too much damage to the propolis? Often a winter hive inspection is just a peek inside. Consider the following: Choose warmer sunnier days when the propolis may be a bit softer. Avoid popping boxes apart unless absolutely necessary. To view what’s going on inside the bottom box, remove a couple of frames from the top box to peek down inside the hive. Use duct tape to seal worn seams in boxes helping prevent the need for excessive amounts of propolis. Use entrance reducers when needed. Only harvest propolis in the summer/early fall months – stopping in plenty of time for the bees to restock.
What Kind of Bees Should I Order?
Scan here for our Decision Chart
TX 5000 – Italian/Carniolan Genetics (Nucs, Full Hives, Packages, and Queens) Gentle and easy to work Parasite and disease resistant. Early spring buildup in population Tendency to limited swarming. Ability to ripen honey rapidly. Less propensity for robbing behavior Adept at handling dearth Rapidly adjust brood production according to food availability Among the best at overwintering Golden Cordovan (Nucs, Full Hives, and Queens) Originates from the Italian family so it carries some of the characteristics of that breed. Believed to be the gentlest breed in the world. Good honey producers Does well in warm weather Good wax producers Great choice for backyard beekeepers Still have questions? Which is better for backyard beekeepers? Either one! Both the TX 5000 and Golden Cordovan are sweet, gentle bees and suitable for being placed in suburban backyards. For farm situations the same is true, however, for an increased honey production, the TX 5000 is your best bet.
It’s that time of year again – time to order your 2024 Nucs, Full Hives, Packages, and Queens! But are you confused on which is best for you? Let's go over some fast facts about the 2 breeds that we carry.
We understand how confusing it can be to chose which breed of bee best suits your needs. Listen as Blake sheds some light on some key aspects that can help you decide.
BEES
This is one of those “hot” topics in cold weather – ha-ha! I can vividly remember the disagreements between seasoned beekeepers at club meetings about what you can and cannot feed bees as the weather gets cold. Who won? Each and every one of them! Because who’s right? All of them, of course! It is truly our right to feed our bees what we want “if” we have given due diligence to the topic. This is one of those cases where knowledge is power! As we enter the cooler months, I recommend converting to 2:1 syrup (2 parts sugar, 1 part water) - this thicker syrup is closer to the viscosity of honey, giving the bees instant food if needed. As mentioned in previous articles - they aren't likely to eat cold syrup. What is cold? 50⁰ F or below. This doesn’t mean that if it’s 50⁰ F outside the syrup inside will be that cold because hive warmth will continue to warm it for a time. We can expect the hive cluster temperature to be around 70⁰ F even with cold temperatures outside. As the weather gets colder - inside temperatures will drop as well. Because of this, remove any syrup to prevent added moisture inside the hive. Simply stated, if they aren't eating it, don't leave it. What should you do if your hive is light on stores? Here’s where the “opinions” start to fly! I’ve never been a fan of feeding fondant. It seemed to be a system done in northern states and not commonly done in my area, the south. BUT, as the years go by, I find more and more beekeepers using it to supplement carbohydrates when cold syrup wasn’t an option. Does that mean I’m wrong? Well, of course not! Ha-ha! Really, what that means is, if your bees are running short of stored honey and it’s November or December, or January for that matter, and you don’t have frames of honey stored back – you might use fondant as a supplement! There, I said it! Typically, fondant (candy) is fed directly on top of the hive. This most often will require a shim of some sort to allow space for the candy board. I would avoid using a hive body (even a medium) for a shim because of the temperature loss that will occur with the added empty space. You can make a shim out of old hive boxes by putting them on a table saw and cutting them down to 2” - OR, We have designed a well thought out Internal Patty Tray that works beautifully to hold the fondant or patty. When it comes to feeding pollen, I believe we’ve covered that very well in the last couple of issues. To reiterate, high quality pollen patties can be used through this month. My recommendation is the Global 4% patty. This isn’t a brood builder, but more a nutrition builder. What if you want to combine the two – carbohydrates and protein? That could be done in the form of sugar bricks. If you want to get really confused, Google “sugar bricks for bees,” and get ready for a multitude of versions to decipher through! Most are only sugar and water with an added ingredient here and there...not a lot unlike fondant. I have researched this topic in detail, and can say, with all the choices I compared ingredients on, “Stan’s Soft Sugar Brick” had what I considered the most legitimate ingredients than any other. It not only includes pollen for protein – but essential oils that I believe are beneficial to our overwintering bees. Another “feature” of this feed supplement is its usefulness throughout the year. Prior to first frost as a winter feed supplement Slow brood buildup any time of year For cutouts (bee removals) – use Stan’s Soft Sugar Bricks™ in place of any wet comb. Eliminating any and all honey and replacing with soft sugar bricks will prevent hives from being robbed out as well as being overrun with Small Hive Beetles. Feed light (1/1 syrup) when using this method for removal bees. The wrap-up on winter feeding can pretty much be summed up by saying: keep a continual check on the honey stores, monitor your hives as you go through winter – and even more so if we have a cold, wet one. I would be remiss if I didn’t say – Don’t over complicate this. If you started fall with a good hive with ample food stores you should be fine at least until December. Do your hive checks and “react” accordingly, understanding that bees can starve with food stores still in the box on a few frames over.
Recipe for Fondant 4 parts sugar (by weight) 1 part water (by weight) ¼ tsp vinegar for every pound of sugar Candy thermometer Heavy thick bottomed pot Stove Hand mixer, immersion blender, stand mixer, or whisk
Winter Feeding
Photos and recipe credit: Angi Schneider
Stan Gore's famous proprietary recipe - EXCLUSIVELY AT TBS!
Text
SHOP
The Bucket Blanket is the ideal solution for evenly warming and decrystallizing full pails of honey. The heat-insulated Blanket is equipped with a patented 120W heating element that warms and liquefies pails of crystallized honey in just a couple of days without burning it. This American-made product is made of heat-resistant and durable materials, making it perfect for your honey liquefying needs!
The Internal Sugar Brick & Patty Tray provides the perfect solution to make room for sugar bricks, fondant and pollen patties! It allows bees to access feed from all sides, including the underside, which prevents small hive beetles from laying eggs & larva hatching under the feed.
NEW PRODUCT ALERT
Don't let Small Hive Beetles take over your colony!
They are easy to install and I believe help hold the beetle population down. Quick easy. Always good to work with The Bee Supply The Bee Supply replied: Awesome! Thank you Jay.
TBS Beekeeper Chat with Dr. Jamie Ellis - University of Florida One of the most sought after public speakers
We should see Small Hive Beetles decrease over the next few months - BUT you don't have to wait to install the "Guardian"! This patented technology keeps small hive beetles from entering a beehive by masking the entrance. The "Guardian" also uses red light technology that has been proven to detour the small hive beetle and disrupts their invasive efforts. Installation of the Guardian is simple and adapts to any beehive configuration from 10 and 8 frame Langstroth, as well as 5 frame nucleus colonies. This inexpensive device gives your bees a fighting chance against the threat of small hive beetles.
See how easy installation is!
When Dr. Jamie Ellis speaks - beekeepers listen...including me! Join me as Jamie and I talk in-depth about winter food stores, how much is ideal, and what to do if it’s not! We also talk about bee to comb ratio, treating not to just treat – but solely to focus on killing Varroa…And one of the hot topics going around – The Yellow Legged Hornet! Check it out! To learn more about Dr. Ellis - Click Here!
with Chari Elam
Photo Credit: Paul Jorge - Asian hornet secondary nest built at the top of a 10 meter tree which only became visible in the autumn.
What's Bugging You? Yellow-legged Hornet aka: Asian Hornet
As much as we don’t want to hear it – IT is here – Here being the United States. In September of this year (2023) Vespa Velutina (Yellow-legged Hornet) was discovered by a beekeeper in Georgia. Subsequently it was confirmed by University of Florida’s Keith Delaplane…yet another dreaded honey bee pest had indeed arrived on U.S. soil. As of the date of this article, a second Yellow-legged Hornets nest was found near the first and has been eradicated. It is important to note: The state of Georgia, along with neighboring states such as Florida are closely monitoring the situation by installing numerous traps as well as focusing on prevention methods to stop it from crossing any borders. In order for us as a community of beekeepers to provide eyes in the field – I want to give our readers the opportunity to learn as much as possible regarding this new pest that is potentially a great threat to our beloved honey bees. Quote Dr. Jamie Ellis, “It’s Big Deal!” Queens overwinter by themselves underground or in rotten wood such as old rotting stumps. The queen emerges in late winter / early spring with the ability to create a paper nest, lay eggs in cells she created, and go harvest the food needed to feed developing larvae. Quote: Dr. Ellis, “She can do everything a worker can do.” Once these babies develop, she stays in the nest and focuses on egg laying. From that point, workers expand the nest, taking over as forgers and feeding the larvae. 1st nest the queen forms is called the primary nest – about the size of a tennis ball. Once it’s fully developed, they move to a secondary nest location that grows to 2-4 times the size of a basketball. Adult hornets hunt for meat to feed their carnivorous young. They sting soft bodied animals such as caterpillars and grasshoppers, chewing up the meat and bring it back to feed the developing larvae. As the season progresses and fall hits, the available “meat” decreases and they start to hunt for other sources – i.e., Honey Bees and other insects. The hornet flies to a honey bee colony and lands on the entrance facing “out.” As foragers fly back to their hives, they grab them, cut off their heads and abdomens, chew them up and take them back to their nest to feed the growing nest. Called: Hawking This activity paralyzes honey bee behavior preventing all foraging activity - ultimately killing the hive. As fall progresses, the nest focuses on “reproductive” males and future queen hornets. After mating in late fall, in winter the reproductive queens nest in the ground and in rotten wood. (We’ve come full circle) Problem… Next year you now have hundreds of queens ready to create the cycle of nest and propagation all over again, except, this time there are many more of them to contend with. The silver lining to this issue Europe has been down this road for over a decade. For this reason, we have their solutions at our disposal – traps being the main line of defense. Countries such as France, Spain and Portugal provide traps at no charge to beekeepers in order to continually combat these colony- killing insects. They ARE making progress and we will as well if faced with the same problem. IF this becomes more widespread, look for local entities to communicate with beekeepers on actions you need to take. TBS will also make it a priority to inform you of any updates the industry provides. For more information – Click here To report a suspected site anywhere in the United States - Click here
Photo Credit: Giles San Martin
Check out the segment where Dr. Ellis discusses the Yellow- legged Hornet
A raw pine box, unpainted or untreated, isn’t going to last long. While your bees don’t care, your wallet will! In general, cypress or cedar boxes are not painted or treated. The natural oils in them preserve them. There are however some sealers made specifically for cedar/cypress that can be applied to the outside of the box to extend their life a bit as well as give it a nice patina. For pine woodenware, avoid painting inside hive boxes. Instead, paint the entire bottom board and outer cover. Inner covers don't need paint, and frames should remain unpainted. This may settle some arguments: Bees don’t care what color, or colors you choose! Really dark colors in hot climates aren’t advisable because of heat absorption, but other than that, let your imagination run wild! While not necessary, bees can find their specific hive better if it’s a different color than the neighboring hive. But, when it comes to preserving a hive, for standard pine boxes, here are a few options: The bare basics - whether you paint the box, or purchase a pre-painted box, make sure it has at least 2 coats of exterior paint. Latex is preferable, since it’s less toxic than oil base, but either works. Better than the basics - a primer coat, 2 coats of high-quality exterior paint, and make sure the top and bottom rims of the box are painted. Lifetime preservation- soak the box and bottom board in Eco Dip, Copper Naphthenate, or boiled linseed oil for a few days. If you use linseed oil, you’ll have to use oil base paint, and let it dry for several days. Whatever mix you use, once it fully dries, coat with a primer, then 2-3 coats of high-quality exterior paint. Your box should then last a few decades! Wax dipped boxes- this is hard to do on a small scale. Some supply companies sell woodenware that’s wax dipped, but make sure they are a reputable, USA company. Wax dipped equipment can last a very long time, but if not done perfectly, with a perfect blend of ingredients, it doesn’t last long at all. Be cautious of online only brands, which often sell imported, soft wood boxes quickly dipped or sprayed with paraffin. Take the opportunity in cold weather to freshen the paint on your hives in use. The bees are clustered inside and could not care less about the project.
Using a wood preservative under paint will extend the life of your boxes considerably.
Article By: Blake Shook Photos: Chari Elam
Painting and Preserving Woodenware
How about a button magnet? Not what you would think to be the ideal Christmas gift - But for a beekeeper, this is a game changer! Simply drop it down in a pocket and viola', a high strength hive tool holder built into any bee suit! These can be found online or in any hardware store.
Your local trophy shop can engrave a hive tool making it extra special!
Another stocking stuffer idea is this long lasting smoker fuel for that new smoker they want! This particular one is called "Soft Smoke" - It's easy to light and lasts for a long time. Although anything that will burn can work – having a fuel that is quick start and easy to store is appreciated.
By: Lynne Jones
Here’s a gift that keeps on giving! The Bee Supply has come out with this “Super Smoker” that has definitely surpassed other smokers on the market at this price point. Much heavier duty steel than the previous version, and the extra thick leather bellow will no doubt make it last for years. I’m looking forward to my Santa putting this one under the tree for me!
Stocking Stuffer Suggestions You can never have too many hive tools. And with different styles and colors available, having designated ‘his and hers’ might be a good idea; or maybe even a personalized hive tool. Perhaps not losing the hive tools you already have is appealing. There are several tool belt and magnet options for keeping them close at hand.
Have you ever had to do any beekeeping tasks at night? In my experience, headlamps do not work well inside a veil because the light just reflects off the veil back into your eyes – Problem solved with this clip-on light! It keeps your hands free and in the dark, bees are not attracted to the red light.
The 2023 beekeeping season is wrapping up and what better time than now to start dropping not-so-subtle hints on the equipment and tools we want for next year! If you need gift ideas for yourself or a favorite beekeeper, I am here to help!
What's the Buzz on what Beekeepers want for Christmas?
Do you plan to include any of the items in this article on your Wish List? You can message me on Facebook or send an email to BrazosRiverHoney77474@gmail.com
Though it’s not something I use frequently, I bought this hive carrier a couple of years ago and LOVE IT! It truly makes moving a hive much easier.
Did you know you can give the gift of knowledge? Books and classes are ALWAYS a great gift because between bees, beekeeping, pests, honey, wax, and nectar sources (flowers), there’s always more to learn.
Does your honey crystallize as fast as mine does? The only thing worse than crystallized honey is having to re-liquefy it! A Bucket Blanket would make my life so much easier.
I’ve saved the best and most expensive gift wish for last – the Apimaye hive. They are rapidly gaining in popularity despite their higher initial cost. Apimaye hives are double-walled plastic bee hives with a special filler material injected between the walls. They do not need to be painted because the plastic contains a UV additive. The plastic material makes them waterproof, rot and warp-proof, and termite proof. They have an insulating R value of 6.93; six times greater than a typical wooden hive. The insulation keeps the hive warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer. This results in fewer bees shivering their flight muscles to generate heat and fewer bees foraging to collect water for cooling and fanning their wings to provide ventilation in the summer. The Apimaye hive is compatible with regular Langstroth frames and includes nice features like side latches and handles, a top feeder, a slide-out bottom tray, a pollen trap, queen excluder, and more.
If you don’t have a triple-layer ventilated suit/jacket, this should be the #1 item on your list – just trust me on this – they are worth every penny.
Practical Gifts
A tool box or bucket caddy is a necessity. Take that extra honey bucket and add one of the organizers to it or an inexpensive garden caddy works too!
Beek t‑shirts make great gifts. As a bonus, sometimes when wearing one, people ask you about bees, and then you get to talk about bees – and maybe even sell some honey!
Available in Purple, Orange and Red - Some colors also available in J Hook style
Made just for The Bee Supply! These standard and J hook tools come in several bright colors to make it easier to spot your tool if you accidentally drop it or have to search for it in the toolbox. What makes it extraordinary? It's crafted from ultra-durable stainless steel, and the corners are gently rounded so it won't rip your glove or hurt your fingers. Plus, it's less prone to snag when you slide it into your pocket.
Check out our NEW Rounded Corner Hive Tools!
SHOP EARLY Give the gift that is always JUST what they wanted!
Image by Leisan Rakhimova
By: Sondra Zacot Liberty County Texas Master Gardener
In today’s world there are a lot of circumstances that are affecting bee’s life cycles and habitats. Bees have been dying from a variety of factors including pesticides, drought, and habitat destruction. Bees are not only important for humans, but also for entire ecosystems to function. As we know, bees allow plants to reproduce through pollination. These plants contribute to the food system by feeding animals such as birds and insects. I think it is very important to find safer treatments other than the use of pesticides in our yards and gardens. I would like to discuss some alternative methods we can practice in place of pesticides. A little over two years ago, I chose to go organic. I stopped using pesticides in my yard and gardens to control insects. One of the methods I would like to discuss is the alcohol method. The alcohol breakdowns the protective wax that covers certain insects and also dries the soft body parts of other insects which leads to their death. This method is most effective against nymphs and adults. It does not always work on eggs or pupae, so it is recommended you spray weekly until you no longer see any pests. You can use a 50/50 solution of one-half alcohol and one-half water, first testing it on just a few leaves overnight before spraying the whole plant. I've also used straight isopropyl alcohol to help control aphids. Make sure to put the infected plant in deep shade or in your garage out of the sun and then spray it with straight isopropyl alcohol. This method took care of the aphids while not harming the plant I was treating (milkweed.) Aside from using alcohol, another alternative is garlic or hot peppers and water. Add four to six cups of water in your blender with either a clove of garlic or a hot pepper and blend. I personally use a pepper hotter than a jalapeno. Strain the pulp from the liquid and pour in a spray bottle. Like the alcohol, garlic or pepper water is irritating to the insect’s body. To test solution, spray just a few leaves on the plant and leave overnight, checking for any damage to the plant the next day. I would like to emphasize spraying your plant in the evening or in a shady location as the sunlight can cause further damage to the plants. Another eco-friendly and inexpensive method for combating plant pests is a soapy water solution, otherwise known as Insecticidal Soap. Mix 1 tablespoon liquid soap (free of fragrance and moisturizers) per quart of water, or 4-5 tablespoons of soap per gallon of water. Soap sprays kill harmful insects like mites, aphids, white flies and immature leaf hoppers. The fatty acids in the soap dissolve the insects' exoskeleton, causing them to dehydrate. Neem oil is a naturally occurring pesticide from the neem tree. Neem oil can be purchased in granules, dust, and water-soluble powders. It is used on a variety of crops and ornamental plants for pest control. It is non-toxic to bees, birds, plants, and mammals. As always, follow label instructions from the manufacturer. We can also practice the companion planting method. The marigold is probably the most well- known plant for repelling insects. By using plants like marigolds or aromatic herbs such as basil and garlic around our vegetables and ornamental plants, you can naturally deter unwanted pests. Making this change in my own yard and gardens, I'm now seeing beneficial insects such as the lace wings, praying mantis and parasitic wasps. I've also attracted many ladybugs! A ladybug can eat up to 5000 aphids in its two-year life cycle. Since I began this journey, I have sustained the natural habitats for tree frogs, bull frogs and lizards which I enjoy having around my yard. These techniques of organic gardeners and farmers have been around for a while and help sustain healthy plants and gardens along with habitats that are beneficial to the environment. I encourage everyone to use available resources such as the internet to learn more about great alternatives for attracting beneficial insects. Below are a few of my favorite websites for educational purposes. Aggie Horticulture Cool Plant Blog Gardening Channel Gardening Know How The Art and Science of Smart Gardening
Bee-Friendly Pest Management
Photo Credit: Kayleigh Clark
Image by: Ninetechno
SuperDFM is a blend of 7 probiotic bacteria that replenish the microbes lost due to agricultural modifications of honey bees' environment. It's all-natural and completely safe to use, even during honey flow!
SuperDFM - Honey Bee is a probiotic that promotes optimal gut health. A balanced gut microbiome helps to optimize digestion and nutrition. In turn, this increases the bee's ability to combat chalkbrood, fight off mites, support pesticide detoxification, and increase hive immunity.
SuperDFM High-quality Probiotic for Honey bees
Beyond Bees By: Paul Fagala
Time to sew Clover is NOW! For detailed instructions on how CLICK HERE!
Planting a Pollinator Garden
Beekeepers are always looking ahead to the next season. If you’ve considered planting a pollinator garden for the bees and butterflies in your area, you’ll need to think ahead too. November and December are great months to till soil and plant seeds for spring flowers. In your planning, consider the following for a pollinator garden: Use a wide variety of plants that bloom in all seasons. Pollinators need plants throughout the year, so having a good mixture of plants that bloom at different times will help support the pollinators in your area. You will also enjoy the added color throughout the growing season. The bees will appreciate having nectar and pollen sources in late summer when the wild plants are not producing much. When you sow seeds, don’t make it too tidy. Pollinating insects are used to flowers that grow in clumps rather than in neat rows. Clumps of plants will provide cover for caterpillars that might use them as their host plants where as they would be more exposed to predators on single plants. Plant native plants! Native plants provide so many benefits for pollinators. They require less water since they are conditioned to live in the habitat. Insects know them and recognize them and are more easily attracted to them. Include larval host plants for insects. Mix in native milkweed for Monarchs, passionflower for Gulf Fritillaries, dill or fennel for Black Swallowtails and thistles for Painted Lady. The leaves on these plants will be eaten, so mixing them in with your other plants can hide them when they don’t look very pretty. If you use tropical milkweed, it will need to be cut back in the fall before the Monarchs migrate. Don’t forget the nighttime pollinators. Many flowering plants bloom at night when moths and bats are active. Look for flowers that are white or dull colored, which open in the late afternoon or evening and produce ample nectar. Moonflowers are a great example. Water is an important part of the garden. Providing water will be beneficial to all the wildlife in the area. You can create a salt lick for bees and butterflies by creating a damp area and mixing in sea salt or wood ashes into the mud. Pollinator gardens are beneficial to all of the pollinating insects around as well as other wildlife in your yard such as birds that will eat the seeds the plants produce. You will also have much more color in your yard throughout the year. Planning now will be worth the effort in the summer months next year.
SKILLET SALTED HONEY APPLE CRISP
YIELD:Makes 6-8 servings INGREDIENTS 1 - stick butter, divided 1 cup - oats 1/4 cup - brown sugar 1 cup - chopped pecans 2 T - flour 1/2 cup - sugar 1/4 cup - honey
DIRECTIONS Preheat oven to 375ºF. Cut up 1/2 of the butter into small cubes. In a medium bowl, mix the butter with the oats, brown sugar, pecans, and flour until it is crumbly, but starting to clump together. Set it aside. Melt 1/2 of the butter over medium heat, add the sugar, honey, salt, orange juice and zest, cook for 15 minutes until the sauce starts to turn light brown, syrupy and reduced by 1/2. Add the apples, cinnamon, and nutmeg. Toss to coat and continue cooking for another 6-8 minutes. Turn off the heat and add the crumbled pecan mixture to the top of the apples. Place in the oven and bake for 10-12 minutes or until the topping begins to brown and the apples start to bubble. Serve warm with additional honey drizzled on top. TIP Add 1/2 cup of fresh or dried cranberries for a seasonal twist to this dish.
1 tsp. - kosher salt, divided Zest and juice of 1 small orange 4 - crisp, tart apples (such as Granny Smith), cored and cut into 1/2" slices 1 tsp. - ground cinnamon 1/2 tsp. - ground nutmeg Additional honey for drizzling
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Photo Credit: Therese Ramirez